The Burberry man,
chief creative officer Christopher Bailey
gravitated towards lace to make quite the
statement for Burberry Prorsum’s spring-
summer 2016 collection. Beginning with a formal
note, tailored, two-button suits were quiet but
confident. They were paired with a hint of lace,
executed for shirts and ties alike. Introducing
joggers to the lineup, Bailey also experimented
with unexpected fabric choices, turning out a
puffer biker jacket and slouchy sheer tops. Simple slim suiting, in navy and mossy green, was
paired with lace shirts or transparent T-shirts, and
smarter patent bags mirrored the patent highlights
on shoes. Cuffed and drawstring-waisted trousers
gave a relaxed, informal twist to some suits with
raffia used for clutches and the new Barrow bag, a
document briefcase, adding a summer feel. Long,
light, blocked colour scarves and lace ties made up
the other accessories.
SS16 Prorsum menswear took to the runway, and
we watched in anticipation of what would be for
spring after the glittering AW15 show, which GQ’s
Style Director described as “the best menswear
show Christopher Bailery has ever sent down a
runway”.
Cotton lace was the focus of the show, hence its
name ‘Straight Laced’. In shirts – boxy and short-
sleeved, or with ruffle fronts – it added a texture
and delicacy that still managed to retain
some masculinity, and was used on coat collars to
tie Burberry’s classic trenches and macs into the
collection. Other outerwear consisted of a cream
lace car coat and light wool styles which were
draped over shoulders. It complemented the
women’s pre-collection that was included in the
show.
Animal prints – giraffe and zebra – were added in
on knits and bags, which reminded us of Burberry
collections past, a more abstract zebra-style print
covering the trench coat that closed the show, in a
light silk wool closing the show.
This was a very pared back offering from Bailey,
with some beautiful pieces, simple natural colours
and a relaxed feeling taking the place of the wow
factor that his shows – and certainly the last one –
usually brings.
The
bold outing was rounded out by dandy slippers
with tassels, essential trench coats and standout
leather bags.
For a brand built on outerwear,
summer will always be a tricky season, and so we
shall look forward to winter.

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