has – from many fashion critics’ perspectives –
lost ground on the international stage. Partly as
a corollary to the rise of London Collections:
Men, partly due to Florentine menswear fair
Pitti Uomo’s increasing importance on the
international men’s fashion calendar, and also
partly due to a (perceived) lack of emerging
talent.
This season though, it felt like there were new
shoots growing. Nowhere was this more evident
than at Gucci, where recently appointed creative
director Alessandro Michele showed his first
‘proper’ (as in, he actually had more than a few
weeks to prepare it this time) menswear
collection.
The result was a truly lush display of textures,
colours and above all, concepts. Gucci (like some
of the other houses currently showing) has been
seemingly stuck on a single template, subtly
altered, for season after season until now, and
Michele’s collection proved that it’s certainly
not ideas that are lacking in Milan.
The unbridled retro-romantic 1970s theme burst
through in spectacular juxtapositions of
materials and a collection that spanned
everything from monogrammed jacquard trench
coats and silk pyjamas to rich floral suits and
lace vests.
In this way, the 55-look show was about
expressing a mood rather than a colour palette,
and showed that Michele has apparently been
let out of his cage. It could well be the making
of both him and the label.
Source:Fashionbeans.com
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